The North Cape

2022-09-09

It was snowing outside and we were waiting for our burgers. We, a group of young Software engineers would enjoy this meal and watch a movie in the cinema as we did very often on Mondays after work. I was talking to a new colleague – Alex. He just finished studying and passed his motorbike license test lately. As Software engineers do, we spoke about Software development and eventually started to talk about holidays. At some point I mentioned my plan to ride my motorbike to the Northcape this year. I had this plan for some time now in my head. As we continued our talk the desire to join me on this ride was sparked in Alex and while we were finishing our burgers we had already agreed to ride together. Planning began the next day.


A huge map of Scandinavia was bought, and we started defining our route. Equipment was being collected and missing parts were bought and packed. We packed the stuff a lot of times to find the right configuration and returned to the map to continue planning. Part of our planning process was watching the “Long Way Round” series to get inspired for our upcoming journey. It felt like we were planning a trip around the world even though it was just a short part of what these guys in the television had done just a few years back. At that time, I had no experience in longer motorbike trips. Usually, I was riding my bike in the evenings after work and had a few smaller trips to the Alps, but no more.

Then the big day came. We met at my front door and started our journey.  Three weeks of riding were before us. Since living in the southern part of Germany we had to ride a boring 1.000 km to arrive in Sweden. From there our journey continued along the eastern coast of Sweden until we arrived in Haparanda which is the border to Finland. Until here we simply made miles. From now on our journey continued on smaller roads and beautiful landscapes. But not only did change the landscape. Also, we experienced things unusual to us. Petrol stations with huge freezers containing halves of reindeers and road signs full of bullet holes. Also, entering Finland in summer means entering mosquito land. Every break meant tons of them around you. Since we were already far north the sun was shining also late at night. Everybody who experienced sitting in a tent during a sunny day’s afternoon can imaging how the nights felt. Every shower on a camp space was more than welcomed.

From here on the distance to the north cape became less and less. Alta was the last big city before our last leg to the north cape island Mageroya. The landscapes changed dramatically. Just started in dense forests in Finland the trees became smaller and smaller and suddenly were replaced by huge stones. I was impressed by the beauty of these landscapes. At the end of the day we found ourselves before the north cape tunnel. It is a nearly 7km long tunnel which is at it’s deepest point around 200 meters below sea level. We payed the tunnel toll and continued to Mageroya. Meanwhile, the weather had worsened, and we found ourselves in a very cold and stormy environment. We were freezing and stopped just to hid behind our motorbike as the strong and cold wind were blowing against us. Finally, we arrived at our campside and decided to rent a hut instead of building up our tent.

The next day was totally different. Blue skies, no wind and 20 degrees. It was perfect weather to take our last leg to the north cape plateau. It was a nice ride and finally we arrived. It felt some kind of unreal to be here at the place I knew for so long just from pictures and all the planning paid off. While being heavily impressed by this place the huge number of other tourists destroyed the experience a bit. Beside the well-known north cape sculpture there is a huge building containing bars, restaurants and souvenir shops and everything was full of people. There were around 20 big busses which brought them from the harbour where they arrived with ships. We enjoyed a beer in the evening sun and decided to ride back. Now our journey back home began. It was a weird feeling for me to have reached that place and I understood that is about the journey and not the destination.

Our ride back was planned to go through Norway. Riding along the fjords was a breathtaking experience. The landscapes changed again, and I enjoyed every kilometre. Weather-wise we were less lucky. Heavy rain and cold temperatures followed us as we rode south to the Lofoten. Lucky us, on the Lofoten the weather improved again, and we spend tree days here riding the roads there. Taking the ferry to Bodo brought us back to mainland and we continued riding south.

The landscapes continued to be breathtaking. The winding roads along the fjords are the perfect place to ride your motorbike. We rode the impressive Atlantic Road which is a couple of several smaller bridges and continued to ride the well-known Trollstigen which would have been a great rode to ride if there have not been so many cars and camper vans. The more south we came the more cities we rode through, and less nature was around us. We headed further south crossed to the border to Sweden and following the Swedish west coast down. Our second last day started with crossing the final leg in Sweden and Denmark and we found ourselves in the early evening at the German border. Here we decided after a whole day riding to continue the last part back through the night.

Every 200 km we stopped, filled our motorbikes, drank coffee and continued. We did this the whole night until we were forced to stop. I realized at a fuel stop in the early morning that my rear tire was completely flat and so hot that the gum of the tire was hanging down in finger thick pieces. I just realized that the last part of our route was the one we rode with the highest speed. Distance home was around 400 km. My bike was brought by a service truck to a tire dealer which opened few hours later. Another few hours later my new tire was installed and around lunch time we continued riding home.

It was a wild ride of around 8.000 km through the most impressive landscape I had seen so far. I felt a deep gratitude to have been able to do this tour. It was not the north cape it was the whole route which made this journey.


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